Another example of before and after just to give you a better idea that there is definitely extra work that goes into the images before it gets sent to a client apart from basic images selection:
I’ve been asked a few times about watermarks and more specifically how to watermark your photos in a batch, especially if they are different orientation (landscape and portrait) and/or different size. Most of the time my photographs are of the same size, however, every once in a while, I crop something tighter or reframe my photograph, so the image dimensions slightly differ. This of course could cause the watermark to be slightly off depending on which method you use to apply the watermark.
I know many people prefer Photoshop where you can record an action and create scripts, but I personally prefer to use Lightroom for all of my my batch processing and catalog management, so it only made sense for me to use Lightroom to apply my watermarks.
First thing to do is to decide on the design of your watermark – it can be just plain text (you can select font type and size straight in Lightroom) or artwork graphics. I’ve done both, but prefer my logo graphics to be used as a watermark. So I created my logo in Photoshop and saved it either in JPG or PNG format (depending on the type of watermark) to be later used in Lightroom.
Then I open Edit Watermark from the Lightroom top menu and select an appropriate option – in my case Graphic:
Next, in the Watermark Effects there are several options for you to choose from in order to align your watermark perfectly to fit all your images:
1. Opacity: in my case, since my logo graphics is saved with required opacity, my setting is 100
here you can select it to fit your image, or fill , or simply set it proportional to your image size, like in my case (40)
this allows you to reposition your watermark horizontally or vertically in the photograph. In my case, I like my watermark to be a bit above the lower edge of the photograph, so my setting is 6 for vertical inset.
this is probably the most userful feature, that allows you to anchor your watermark to one of 9 anchor points. For example, my watermark is a semi transparent white horizontal strip with my logo graphics on the right hand side. So in this case, it makes sense for me to anchor to lower left.
There is a preview window on the right that allows you to view how the settings are applied. You can save this watermark preset and use it on export of your photographs every time.
And it works perfectly on images of different size and different orientation!
So i’ve been asked about my post processing technique, so I decided to go over one specific example:
This is the image straight from the camera: ISO 500, AF 1.8, 1/125
As I mentioned before I mostly use Lightroom, but there is nothing that you can do in Lightroom that can’t be done in Photoshop.
First things first – Camera raw in Photoshop is identical to the one in Lightroom and that’s where most of my magic happens…
I just go down the list of adjustments and from left to right in the Camera Raw tabs (it does not have to be done in this particular order, but this is how it works for me most of the time):
exposure – looks fine but i’d crack it up a bit to let’s say 0.5
contrast – same thing – up to about 30 –> this is because I know I will be desaturating the image and I need extra contrast
next highlights, shadows, whites and blacks – this is strictly your personal preference and taste but since it will be a bw image, i have opened up shadows to about +25, lowered my whites to about -25 and blacks to -35:
It’s a very subtle difference at this point, but you can always go back to basic adjustments and update them later.
Next, I change curve from linear to strong contrast.
Now, i desaturate the image and and apply split toning – again this is strictly personal preference and there is no wrong or right recipe…
At this point, I would go back to basic Camera Raw adjustments and adjust my sliders to my liking.
And here is the final image
and image processed in Photoshop (left) compared to the same post processing done in Lightroom (right):
Like I said before, there is no right or wrong recipe – everything depends on your imagination and creative vision.
Experiment, try different things!
I thought I’d post a little something about post processing…
Nowadays, when every other person owns a dslr, some people owning a dslr consider themselves professional photographers… But there is a lot more to it than learning how to shoot in Manual. One of the things many people struggle with is post processing. Many photographers purchase actions for Photoshop or presets for Lightroom – there is absolutely nothing wrong with that. As long as you can bring your creative vision across… I also started with downloaded actions for Photoshop years ago when I was still learning. These days I’ve created quite a few of my own actions and use them regularly. I also quite often create custom ones for each shoot as I try to convey a specific feel from the session.
Having saved the actions and presets surely saves me some time but it is not all – there is still more to post processing than just clicking a preset/action play button. Files need to be backed up, images shot with different lighting might need some extra tweaking plus of course, no one will do the image selection for you…
Generally, I do 90% of my post processing in Lightroom – I just love the simplicity of use, synch function and batch processing. When very detailed local adjustments are needed I do them in Photoshop. I have to say it is important to develop a workflow that works for YOU. Lightroom is great this way – once I discovered it my life has never been the same.
Here are a couple of examples (Lightroom post processing only):
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